Paris · With Kids · Free Guide
Paris, Quietly
A Slow Family Guide
How I learned to love Paris the second time around — and how to share its calmest corners with your children.
The Story
A Second First Impression
My first trip to Paris, in 2010, was a disappointment. The welcome felt cold, the hotel cramped, the meals forgettable. I left convinced the city wasn't for me — and for five years, I meant it.
Then, in 2015, I gave Paris a second chance. This time I planned differently. I chose neighborhoods that matched the way I like to travel: slowly, quietly, with room to breathe. I researched hotels and restaurants with care instead of leaving them to chance. And the work paid off. I discovered a softer, more intimate Paris — the one that's easy to miss if you rush through it. I've returned at least once a year ever since.
Last year, while planning our family summer vacation, my son told me he wanted to see the Eiffel Tower. Every previous trip had been as a couple or with girlfriends, and I'll admit I hesitated. Would he love the city the way I do? Then I reminded myself: you know this city better than any other — you can design the perfect trip for him. So I did. A year later, he's still talking about it and asking when we can go back. Perhaps he gets that from me.
What follows is that itinerary: a slower, gentler Paris for families who would rather linger than sprint.
Where to Stay
A Central Home Base
Paris is vast, and with children in tow it can overwhelm quickly. The 1st and 2nd arrondissements are ideal for families, especially with little ones: central, walkable, and within easy reach of nearly everything, including the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuileries. They're busier than the corners we'd normally seek out, but with kids, staying central is a must.
Luxury
Park Hyatt Paris – Vendôme
A calm, discreet property steps from Place Vendôme, with excellent service. It's welcoming to families while still offering plenty for adults, including a La Mer spa and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Book through us and you'll receive complimentary breakfast for two, a welcome amenity, hotel credit, early check-in, late check-out, and a room upgrade when available.
Hôtel du Louvre, The Unbound Collection by Hyatt
Great for families, with adjoining family rooms and select suites that sleep up to four, just steps from the Louvre and Jardin des Tuileries. Book through us and you'll receive complimentary breakfast for two, hotel credit, early check-in, late check-out, and a room upgrade when available.
Hôtel Hana
A stylish, intimate hotel with Japanese-inspired interiors and a serene wellness area. Most rooms sleep two, but the two-bedroom Apartment accommodates up to four. Book through us and you'll receive complimentary breakfast for two, one cocktail for two at the bar, and a room upgrade when available.
Mid-range
Golden Tulip Opéra de Noailles
A colorful, family-run hotel near Opéra with genuinely spacious family rooms and an exceptionally convenient location. It feels warm and personal rather than corporate. We've stayed here ourselves and recommend it for families wanting comfort without luxury-hotel pricing.
Hôtel Thérèse
A quiet, owner-run boutique hotel near Palais-Royal. The Club Room sleeps four, with a king or twin beds plus a sofa bed. Book through us and you'll receive an upgrade to the next room category when available, a complimentary half-bottle of white wine, daily express breakfast for two, and a welcome gift.
Hôtel Malte – Astotel
One of the strongest options for larger families. The family setup includes two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and space for up to five; duplex rooms are also available. Complimentary soft drinks, afternoon snacks, a small lobby play area, and a central courtyard are welcome extras with children.
Hôtel Square Louvois
A boutique hotel near Galerie Vivienne with family rooms for up to five. The heated indoor pool, board games, and complimentary afternoon snacks make it especially appealing for families.
Day One
Gardens, Galleries, and an Old Bakery
After check-in, pick up sandwiches from Le Petit Vendôme, home to one of the best ham-and-cheese sandwiches in Paris, and stroll down to the Jardin des Tuileries. Let the kids ride the carousel just steps from the park, then settle in for a quiet picnic. There's no better introduction to Paris than an unhurried hour in these gardens: no screens, no schedule, just the hum of the city at a distance.
When everyone is ready, wander over to the Louvre for the afternoon. Book tickets in advance; it makes all the difference. In the evening, have dinner nearby at Le Mesturet, or at La Fontaine Gaillon if you're feeling fancy, then treat the kids to a stop at Stohrer, Paris's oldest pâtisserie.
Day Two
The Luxembourg Gardens and the Left Bank
Make your way to the Jardin du Luxembourg. You could easily spend the entire day here and in the surrounding neighborhood. The highlight, without question, is renting the little wooden sailboats and letting the kids race them across the fountain. It was, by far, the best part of our trip. Don't miss the nearby playground, pony rides (check the schedule ahead of time), and carousel.
For lunch, bring sandwiches from Maison Landemaine or Benchy, or walk to Localino for a proper sit-down meal. Afterward, stroll to Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche. The children's department is wonderful, and Les Récrés du Bon Marché offers bookable workshops for children ages four to ten on select days. La Grande Épicerie de Paris next door is worth a slow browse of its own. Don't forget to stock up on French butter.
Head back to the hotel for downtime; quiet afternoons are what make quiet evenings possible. For dinner, try Aki for comforting Japanese noodles, Bistrot Victoires for classic French bistro fare, or Brasserie l'Emil inside Château Voltaire — don't skip the fries. Grab gelato at Pedone, then make your way to the Seine for a private boat ride. We used JP's Boat to rent a private Dutch vessel; the owner, Jean-Pierre, was kind and patient with our children.
Day Three
Museums and the Marais
Start with a museum. The Musée de l'Orangerie is calm, manageable, and wonderfully kid-friendly, with plenty to hold young attention. For artistic children, pack a notebook and colored pencils and let them sketch the sculptures. It's the simplest trick I know for turning a museum visit into a meditation. There are plenty of places to eat across this part of the Left Bank when hunger strikes.
In the afternoon, head to the Marais. Wander its narrow streets and visit the Marché des Enfants Rouges, one of the oldest covered markets in Paris. Dine at Les Enfants du Marché, tucked inside the old market, or explore the surrounding casual spots. Afterward, stop by the playground on Rue de Bretagne, then walk up for a hot chocolate at PLAQ, on one of my favorite little streets in Paris.
Day Four
The Eiffel Tower, At Last
Take a cab or the metro to the Eiffel Tower, booking tickets ahead of time if you plan to go up. Or reserve a table at Francette along the Seine and admire it from a distance. Yes, it's the touristy thing — but some icons earn their crowds.
Before you head out, take the kids to the park one last time. Grab a coffee, let them run, and end the trip the way it began: slowly. Then pick up pastries from Cédric Grolet for the road. Another touristy move, but one worth trying at least once.
A Final Note
Paris rewards patience. Skip the checklist, keep the mornings slow, and leave room in the day for nothing at all.
That's the version of the city my son fell in love with — and the one I hope your family finds, too.
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